Taal Volcano: The Island within a Lake within an Island

Taal Volcano is a geological paradox. It is one of the smallest active volcanoes in the world, sitting at an elevation of only 311 meters (1,020 feet), yet it is part of a massive, ancient caldera system that makes it one of the most dangerous. Located in the province of Batangas, about 50 kilometers south of Manila, Taal is famous for its unique geography: it is often described as “an island within a lake, within an island, within a lake, within an island.”

To unpack this Russian doll of geology:

1. Luzon Island: The main island of the Philippines.
2. Taal Lake: A massive freshwater lake filling the ancient Taal Caldera.
3. Volcano Island: The active volcanic cone currently sitting in the middle of Taal Lake.
4. Main Crater Lake: The turquoise lake inside the crater of Volcano Island.
5. Vulcan Point: A tiny rock island that used to sit inside the Main Crater Lake (before the 2020 eruption altered the landscape).

Taal is a Decade Volcano, one of 16 volcanoes worldwide identified by the International Association of Volcanology and Chemistry of the Earth’s Interior (IAVCEI) as being worthy of particular study due to its history of large, destructive eruptions and proximity to populated areas.

Geological Setting: A History of Violence

Taal is part of the chain of volcanoes along the western side of Luzon, formed by the subduction of the Eurasian Plate underneath the Philippine Mobile Belt.

The Prehistoric Caldera

The Taal we see today is just a small acne scar on a much larger beast. Between 140,000 and 5,380 years ago, a series of catastrophic eruptions caused the collapse of massive volcanic cones, forming the Taal Caldera, which measures 25 by 30 kilometers. This depression filled with water to become Taal Lake, the third-largest lake in the country.

Volcano Island

The island that tourists visit (or used to visit before the permanent danger zone declaration) is Volcano Island. It is a complex of 47 overlapping cones and craters formed by eruptions over the last few thousand years. The most famous feature is the Main Crater, a 1.9-kilometer wide depression filled with acidic water.

Eruptive History: From 1572 to Present

Taal has erupted 38 times since records began in 1572. These eruptions have ranged from phreatic (steam-driven) blasts to Plinian columns.

The 1754 Eruption: The Longest Siege

The most enduring eruption in recorded history lasted for 200 days, from May to December 1754.

• Destruction: It buried four towns—Sala, Lipa, Tanauan, and Taal (the old heritage town)—under meters of ash. The residents were forced to relocate to safer grounds, where the modern towns stand today.
• Changing Landscape: The eruption blocked the exit of Taal Lake to the sea, causing the water level to rise and turning the lake from saltwater to freshwater, trapping marine species that eventually evolved into unique freshwater variants (like the tawny or freshwater sardine and the sea snake).

The 1911 Eruption: The Killer

On January 30, 1911, Taal unleashed a base surge—a lateral blast of superheated gas and ash—that wiped out everything on Volcano Island and the western shores of the lake.

• Casualties: It killed 1,335 people.
• The Cross: A large white cross was erected on the crater rim to commemorate the victims, becoming a landmark for future visitors.

The 1965 Eruption: The Birth of a New Cone

This eruption shifted activity to the flank of the island, blasting out a new crater at Mt. Tabaro. It killed 200 people and demonstrated that Taal doesn’t always erupt from the same place.

The 2020 Eruption: A Rude Awakening

After 43 years of slumber, Taal exploded on January 12, 2020.

• The Column: It sent an ash plume 15 kilometers into the sky, raining mud and ash across Metro Manila and disrupting flights.
• The Lightning: The eruption was famous for its spectacular display of volcanic lightning, created by static electricity in the friction-heavy ash cloud.
• The Aftermath: The eruption drained the Main Crater Lake (though it has since refilled) and buried the lush, green island in thick grey ash, turning it into a moonscape. It also forced the permanent evacuation of the thousands of people who lived illegally on the island.

Mythology: The Legend of Lakan Taal

Like all great volcanoes, Taal is steep in lore. The Tagalog people explain its fury through the story of Lakan Taal.

The Forbidden Garden

Long ago, the mountain was a towering peak, higher than the surrounding hills. It was ruled by a benevolent but strict datu (chieftain) named Lakan Taal. He lived in a palace of gold and crystals at the summit. He allowed the villagers to farm the fertile slopes, where crops grew overnight, but he had one rule: No one was allowed to climb to the peak.

The Betrayal

One day, the villagers, overcome by curiosity and greed (after seeing flashes of gold from the summit), broke the taboo. They climbed the mountain, intending to steal the chieftain’s treasures.

• The Curse: Enraged by their betrayal, Lakan Taal summoned the earth to swallow his palace. He slammed the ground, causing the mountain to collapse inward, creating a giant hole (the caldera).
• The Flood: He then called upon the waters to fill the hole, drowning the mountain and turning it into a lake, leaving only the stump of his former home (Volcano Island) as a warning. Some say Lakan Taal still lives in the crater as a giant reptile or dragon, guarding the remains of his kingdom.

Tourism: Hiking the Crater (The Old Days)

Note: As of the 2020 eruption, Volcano Island is a Permanent Danger Zone (PDZ) and is strictly off-limits to tourists. However, tourism thrives on the mainland ridges.

The Classic Trek

Before 2020, the standard Taal tour was a “must-do” for Manila visitors.

1. The Bangka Ride: Tourists would take a motorized outrigger boat (bangka) from Talisay across the chopping waters of Taal Lake.
2. The “Horseway”: Upon landing on the island, visitors had two choices: hike the dusty, hot trail or hire a small, overworked horse to carry them up. The trail was famously suffocating, with volcanic dust kicking up at every step.
3. The Ridge: The reward was the view from the Main Crater rim. Looking down, you saw the sulfur-green water of the inner lake and steam vents hissing from the walls. You could buy a fresh coconut (buko) and marvel at the “Vulcan Point” island.

The Tagaytay Ridge View

Today, the safest and most popular way to enjoy Taal is from Tagaytay City. Perched on the northern rim of the ancient prehistoric caldera, Tagaytay offers a panoramic view of the entire system.

• The View: From a Starbucks or a hotel balcony in Tagaytay, you look down 600 meters to the lake. You can see the entire Volcano Island and map out the craters of 1911, 1965, and 2020.
• The Climate: Tagaytay is famous for its cool breeze (similar to Baguio), making it a favorite weekend getaway for Manileños escaping the heat and chaos of the capital.
• Bulalo: A trip to Taal is not complete without eating Bulalo, a rich beef bone marrow soup that is the region’s signature dish, perfect for the chilly ridge weather.

Recent Activity (2024) and Volcanic Smog

Since the major eruption in 2020, Taal has remained restless. throughout 2023 and 2024, the volcano has frequently emitted high levels of sulfur dioxide (SO2).

• Vog: This gas often mixes with moisture in the air to create vog (volcanic smog), a thick, acidic haze that blankets the surrounding towns and even reaches Metro Manila. Vog can cause eye irritation, sore throats, and respiratory issues, leading to frequent school cancellations in Batangas.
• Phreatic Bursts: The Main Crater Lake continues to boil and occasionally produce small phreatic (steam-driven) explosions, sending plumes of steam hundreds of meters into the air. PHIVOLCS maintains an exclusion zone around the island to protect the public from these sudden, unpredictable outbursts.

Biodiversity: The Tawny and The Snake

Taal Lake is a unique biological laboratory.

• The Tawalis: The lake is the only home in the world for the Sardinella tawilis, the only freshwater sardine. It adapted to freshwater when the lake was sealed off from the sea in 1754. It is a local delicacy, often fried crispy.
• Hydrophis semperi: The lake is also home to one of only two species of “true” freshwater sea snakes (Garman’s Sea Snake). Though venomous, they are generally shy.

Conclusion

Taal Volcano is a reminder that beauty and danger often walk hand in hand. Its picture-perfect setting—the calm blue lake, the lush green island (now slowly recovering its color), the cool breeze of Tagaytay—masks a violent engine that has reshaped the history of Luzon for centuries. Whether viewed from the safety of a ridge or remembered from the dusty trails of the crater, Taal remains the beating heart of Batangas.