Piton de la Fournaise: The Furnace Peak
A complete guide to hiking Piton de la Fournaise on Reunion Island. Discover the Pas de Bellecombe trail, the Mars-like Plaine des Sables, and the legend of Grand-Mère Kalle.
Piton de la Fournaise (Peak of the Furnace) erupts so often — roughly once a year — that the islanders of Réunion treat it less like a threat and more like a spectacle. As one of the most active volcanoes on Earth, it rivals Kilauea in Hawaii for its frequency of eruptions and fluid lava flows. This basaltic shield volcano forms the southeastern part of the island and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
For hikers and geology enthusiasts, “Le Volcan” (as locals call it) offers a journey to another planet. From the red sands of the Plaine des Sables to the steaming rim of the Dolomieu Crater, this is a landscape of stark, raw beauty.
1. The Hike: To the Crater’s Edge
The classic hike takes you from the rim of the caldera down into the “Enclos Fouqué” (the enclosure) and up to the summit craters.
Route: Pas de Bellecombe to Dolomieu
- Distance: ~12 km (7.5 miles) round trip.
- Time: 5–6 hours.
- Difficulty: Moderate to Strenuous. The heat and lava terrain make it harder than the distance suggests.
Step-by-Step Guide:
- Pas de Bellecombe (2,311m): Park your car here. The view is breathtaking. You look down into a massive U-shaped caldera.
- The Descent: Walk down the 500+ steps of the “Rempart de Bellecombe.” This drops you about 100m into the caldera.
- Formica Leo: Immediately at the bottom, you will see a small, perfect cinder cone made of reddish scoria. This is Formica Leo (Ant Lion), formed in 1753. It is a favorite photo spot.
- The Lava Plain: You now cross the vast lava plain. Follow the white painted dots on the rocks. Fog can roll in within minutes, making these dots your only lifeline.
- Chapelle de Rosemont: About halfway, you reach a strange rock formation that looks like a tumulus. It is an old lava hornito.
- The Ascent: The final push is a steady, steep climb up the volcano’s flank. The ground is loose scoria and sharp ‘A’ā lava.
- Dolomieu Crater: At the summit (2,632m), you stand on the rim of the main crater, Dolomieu. It is a gaping abyss, 300 meters deep and over a kilometer wide, formed by a massive collapse in 2007.
2. Plaine des Sables: Walking on Mars
Before you even reach the hike, you must drive through the Plaine des Sables (Plain of Sands). This geological wonder is often described as “Martian.” It is a vast plateau covered in reddish and bronze-colored volcanic gravel (lapilli) and rocks. There is almost no vegetation.
- The Contrast: You drive through lush green cryptomeria forests and alpine meadows, then suddenly drop down into this stark, silent desert of red dust.
- Photography: The best light is at sunrise or sunset, when the red sands glow like embers.
- Pitons: Small volcanic cones, like Piton Chisny, rise from the plain, adding to the extraterrestrial feel.
3. The Legend of Grand-Mère Kalle
Réunion Creole folklore is rich with tales, and the volcano is the domain of Grand-Mère Kalle (Grandmother Kalle). Who she is depends on who you ask, but she is always feared.
- The Witch: In most stories, she is a witch who lives in the crater. Her husband is sometimes said to be the Devil himself.
- The Warning: She can transform into a large black bird. If you hear her cry—“Tout! Tout!”—it is a warning of danger or death.
- The Slave Owner: Another version says she was a cruel slave owner named Mme Desbassayns, condemned to burn in the volcano for her sins. When the volcano erupts, it is said to be her soul screaming in torment.
- The Protector: Some newer interpretations see her as a spirit of the island, protecting the secrets of the volcano from disrespectful intruders.
4. Recent Eruptions and Activity
Piton de la Fournaise is hyper-active. It is a “red volcano” (effusive), meaning it produces fluid lava flows rather than explosive ash clouds.
- 2023 Eruption: The volcano put on a spectacular show from July 2 to August 10, 2023. Lava fountains gushed from fissures on the southeast flank, creating rivers of molten rock.
- 2024 Silence: Unusually, 2024 was a quiet year with no major eruptions. Locals and scientists are waiting to see if this marks the end of a cycle or just the calm before a massive storm.
- Access: When an eruption occurs, the Prefect often closes the hiking trails within the Enclos. However, thousands of locals drive to the “Route des Laves” or the Pas de Bellecombe at night to watch the glow. It is a national pastime in Réunion.
5. La Cité du Volcan
If it is raining (which happens often in the highlands), visit La Cité du Volcan in the village of Bourg-Murat.
- Museum: This is a world-class interactive museum designed by the famous volcanologists Maurice and Katia Krafft.
- What to See: 4D cinema, holographic projections, and a “lava tunnel” experience.
- Science: It explains the hotspot theory (like Hawaii) that created Réunion Island.
6. Practical Tips for Hikers
- Start Early: Be at the parking lot by 6:00 AM or 7:00 AM. By 10:00 AM, clouds almost always engulf the summit, blocking the view and making navigation dangerous.
- Water: There is NO water on the trail. Bring at least 2-3 liters per person.
- Sun Protection: Altitude UV rays are strong, and the lava rock reflects heat. You will burn quickly without SPF 50+.
- Cold Mornings: It can be near freezing (0-5°C) at the start, then 25°C at noon. Layer up.
- White Markers: Never leave the marked trail. The mist (called le brouillard) is disorienting, and people have gotten lost and died in the maze of cracks and ravines.
7. Life in the Lava: Unique Flora
Despite the harsh environment, life finds a way on the volcano’s slopes.
- Branle Vert (Erica reunionensis): This endemic heather is often the first plant to colonize old lava flows. It creates a striking contrast of green against the black rock.
- Mountain Tamarind: Higher up, you find twisted, bonsai-like tamarind trees adapted to the wind and poor soil.
- Silver Lichen: On the oldest flows, a pale, silvery lichen covers the rocks, giving them a ghostly appearance in the moonlight.
8. Underground Adventure: Lava Tunnels
Piton de la Fournaise is famous for its extensive network of lava tubes.
- 2004 Flow: The most popular tunnel to visit is from the 2004 eruption in the Grand Brûlé area.
- The Experience: Guided tours take you deep underground to walk through these natural conduits. You can see “chocolate stalactites” (solidified lava drips) and vast cathedral-like chambers. It is a cool, dark, and fascinating counterpoint to the hot, bright summit hike.
Technical Specifications
| Feature | Data |
|---|---|
| Elevation | 2,632 m (8,635 ft) |
| Location | Réunion Island (French Overseas Dept) |
| Type | Shield Volcano |
| Status | Very Active (Last eruption 2023) |
| Key Crater | Dolomieu |
| Hike Difficulty | Moderate to Hard (Terrain) |
| Best Time | May to November (Dry Season) |
| UNESCO Status | World Heritage Site (Les Pitons, cirques et remparts) |