Ojos del Salado

Nevado Ojos del Salado is the king of volcanoes. Rising to a staggering 6,893 meters (22,615 feet), it is the highest active volcano on the planet and the second-highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere, surpassed only by Aconcagua (6,961 m). Straddling the desolate border between Chile and Argentina, it stands as a sentinel in the Puna de Atacama, a high-altitude desert often compared to the surface of Mars.

Its name, “Eyes of the Salty One,” refers to the massive deposits of salt that appear in the form of lagoons or “eyes” in its glaciers and on its slopes. Despite its immense height, Ojos del Salado is famously “dry.” The region is so arid that even at nearly 7,000 meters, there is often very little permanent snow cover, especially in summer.

Geographical Extremes: Mars on Earth

Ojos del Salado is located in one of the harshest environments on Earth. The Atacama Desert is the driest non-polar place in the world.

• The Climate: The mountain sits in the “Arid Andes.” Precipitation is incredibly rare. The air is thin and bone-dry. Winds can reach hurricane force (over 100 km/h) without warning, dropping wind-chill temperatures to a deadly -30°C (-22°F) even in summer.
• The Highest Lake: In the summit crater, at an altitude of approximately 6,390 meters (20,960 feet), lies a permanent crater lake. It is just 100 meters in diameter, but it holds the Guinness World Record for the highest lake of any kind on Earth.
• Vehicle Records: Because the slopes are sandy and lack the treacherous crevasses of glaciated peaks, Ojos del Salado is the site of world altitude records for vehicles. In 2020, a modified Unimog climbed to 6,694 meters, setting a new benchmark for high-altitude driving.

Climbing History

The mountain is huge, but it remained relatively unknown to the outside world until the 20th century due to its remote location.

• First Ascent: The first successful climb was achieved on February 26, 1937, by the Polish expedition members Jan Alfred Szczepański and Justin Wojsznis. They approached from the Argentine side, navigating uncharted territory.
• The “Active” Debate: For years, there was debate about whether Ojos was active or extinct. The presence of fumaroles (steam vents) and a strong smell of sulfur near the summit proved that the giant is merely sleeping. The last major eruption was around 750 AD +/- 300 years.
• Modern Mountaineering: Today, Ojos del Salado is one of the “Volcanic Seven Summits” (the highest volcano on each continent), attracting hundreds of climbers every season.

The Ascent: Two Faces of a Giant

Climbers can attempt the summit from either Chile or Argentina. The experiences are vastly different.

The Chilean Route (The Normal Route)

This is the most popular and “easiest” way to climb Ojos del Salado.

• Logistics: The approach starts from the city of Copiapó. It involves a long drive into the desert, passing the stunning Laguna Santa Rosa and Laguna Verde.
• Camps:
  • Refugio Murray (4,525 m): An old mountain hut often used for initial acclimatization.
  • Refugio Atacama (5,260 m): Accessible by strong 4x4 vehicles. This serves as Base Camp for many.
  • Refugio Tejos (5,830 m): A container-style hut that is the highest mountain refuge in Chile.
• The Climb: From Tejos, it is a long, grueling slog up scree and volcanic ash slopes. The terrain is not technical, but it is physically devastating due to the altitude. The final 50 meters to the true summit involve a exposed rock scramble (Grade II/III UIAA) and a traverse that often requires ropes for safety.

The Argentine Route

The approach from Fiambalá in Catamarca is wilder, longer, and completely unsupported.

• Remote Wilderness: There are no huts. Climbers must be fully self-sufficient, carrying all tents, food, and water. Mules are often used to transport gear to Base Camp.
• The Scenery: This route is considered more beautiful, passing through colorful valleys and offering a sense of isolation that the Chilean side lacks. However, the logistics are far more complex.

Geology and Volcanology

Ojos del Salado is a complex stratovolcano built on top of a base of older ignimbrites.

• Composition: The lavas are primarily dacitic and rhyodacitic, rich in potassium. This high silica content makes the lava viscous and thick, explaining the steep domes found near the summit.
• Fumarolic Activity: While there has been no historical eruption with lava flow, in 1993 there was a minor ash emission. The fumaroles at the summit crater are active, emitting variable amounts of steam and sulfur gases, confirming the underlying magmatic heat source.

Practical Information for Climbers

• Best Season: The climbing season is short: December to March. Outside this window, the southern winter brings brutal cold and deep snow (paradoxically, most snow falls in winter despite it being a desert).
• Permits:
  • Chile: Since 2004, a permit from DIFROL (Dirección de Fronteras y Límites del Estado) is required because it is a border zone. It is free but mandatory.
  • Argentina: Permits are required from the local authorities in Fiambalá.
• Acclimatization: This is the key to success. You cannot simply rush Ojos del Salado. A standard itinerary requires 10-14 days. Climbers often spend a week acclimatizing on smaller 6000m peaks like San Francisco or Vicuña before attempting the main summit.
• Gear: Double boots (e.g., La Sportiva Olympus Mons or similar) are essential. Even if there is no snow, the cold ground sucks heat from your feet. Down suits or heavy down parkas are required for summit day.
• Water: Water is the biggest logistical challenge. On the Chilean side, Laguna Verde is salt water (undrinkable). You must bring all fresh water from Copiapó or melt snow/ice found at higher camps (which is not always guaranteed).
• The Altitude Record: In 2007, a modified Suzuki Samurai was driven to 6,688 meters on the slopes of Ojos del Salado, setting the Guinness World Record for the highest altitude reached by a vehicle. The mountain’s relatively gentle lower slopes and dry conditions make this possible — though the upper mountain remains a serious mountaineering challenge requiring technical skills on rock and ice.