Licancabur: The Mirror of the Andes
A complete guide to climbing Licancabur, the sacred volcano on the Chile-Bolivia border. Discover the NASA Mars research, the Inca summit ruins, and the legendary Laguna Verde.
Licancabur is the perfect cone that defines the skyline of the Atacama Desert. Straddling the border between Chile and Bolivia at 5,916 meters, it holds a sacred lake near its summit that the Inca once used for ceremonies — and that NASA now studies as an analogue for life on Mars.
Its symmetrical silhouette, often reflected in the emerald waters of Laguna Verde, makes it one of the most photographed volcanoes in South America. But few venture to its summit, where thin air and ancient secrets await.
1. The Hike: A High-Altitude Test
Climbing Licancabur is non-technical (no ropes needed), but it is physically brutal due to the extreme altitude.
- Starting Point: The hike almost always starts from the Bolivian side (near Laguna Verde) at ~4,600m.
- Elevation Gain: ~1,300 m (4,265 ft).
- Distance: ~9 km round trip.
- Time: 7–9 hours (up and down).
- Difficulty: High (due to altitude and loose scree).
The Ascent:
- The Approach: You drive by 4x4 effectively onto the volcano’s lower slopes. The air is already thin here.
- The Slog: The path is a steep, relentless zigzag through loose volcanic scree/ash. For every two steps up, you might slide one back.
- The Summit: Standing at nearly 6,000m, the world curves below you. To the east, the vast Bolivian Altiplano and Laguna Blanca/Verde. To the west, the immense Salar de Atacama in Chile.
2. The Summit Lake: A Window to Mars
Inside the summit crater lies one of the highest lakes in the world (~5,900m).
- The Mars Analog: This small, frozen lake is a key research site for NASA and the SETI Institute.
- Why? The conditions at the summit—extreme UV radiation (thin atmosphere), low oxygen, and freezing temperatures—are the closest environment on Earth to the surface of Mars 3.5 billion years ago.
- Extremophiles: Scientists like Nathalie Cabrol have studied the “extremophile” organisms living in this lake to understand how life might survive on other planets. When you climb Licancabur, you are climbing a planetary analog.
3. The Inca Sanctuary
Long before NASA, the Incas climbed Licancabur.
- Sacred Mountain: For the Atacameño people, Licancabur (meaning “Mountain of the People” in Kunza) was a deity.
- The Ruins: Archeologists have found firewood, pottery, and structural platforms (ushnu) right on the crater rim.
- The Sacrifice: It is believed that priests performed rituals here to ask for water and fertility. The sheer effort to carry wood and supplies to 6,000m without modern gear is mind-boggling.
4. CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING: Landmines
Do NOT attempt to climb from the Chilean side without a verified guide who knows the specific safe routes.
- History: During the tensions between Chile and neighboring countries in the 1970s, the Chilean military planted landmines on several border passes, including the slopes of Licancabur.
- The Safe Route: The Bolivian route is standard, safe, and mine-free. Access involves crossing the border from San Pedro de Atacama to the Hito Cajón border post.
- Logistics: Most climbers stay in San Pedro de Atacama (Chile) for acclimatization, then take a tour that crosses into Bolivia to climb the volcano.
5. Laguna Verde & The Flamingoes
The base of the volcano is as spectacular as the top.
- The Color: Laguna Verde is famous for its intense emerald/turquoise color, caused by high concentrations of copper and arsenic sediments.
- The Wind: The water only turns green when the wind blows and stirs up the sediments. When calm, it reflects the volcano like a perfect mirror.
- Wildlife: Despite the toxic water, you will often spot Andean foxes and James’s flamingos in the surrounding wetlands.
6. Preparation High-Altitude
This is likely the highest you will ever walk.
- Acclimatization: Spend at least 3-4 days in San Pedro de Atacama (2,400m) or the Bolivian Altiplano before attempting this. Altitude sickness is the #1 reason for failure.
- The Cold: The summit can be -20°C with wind chill. You need mountaineering boots, thermal layers, and a serious windproof shell.
- Water: You need 3+ liters. Hydration is key to fighting altitude sickness.
7. The Legend of the Decapitated Brother
Next to the perfect cone of Licancabur stands a volcano without a top: Juriques. The local legend explains why.
- The Triangle: Licancabur and Juriques were two young warrior brothers who both fell in love with Quimal, the most beautiful mountain in the range.
- The Fight: The brothers fought a violent battle for her love, throwing rocks and fire at each other.
- The Punishment: The father of the mountains, Lascar, became angry at their fighting. To stop them, he swung his axe and cut off Juriques’ head.
- The Result: Juriques remains flat-topped to this day, while Licancabur stands tall and proud, having won Quimal’s heart (even though she was exiled to the other side of the Salar).
8. Science Deep Dive: The High Lakes Project
Why is NASA so interested in this specific volcano?
- UV Radiation: The UV indices at the summit lake are often the highest recorded on Earth (Index 43+ has been measured; 11 is considered “extreme”). The thin atmosphere and overhead sun create a radiation environment similar to early Mars.
- The Plankton: Despite this death-ray environment, the lake is full of zooplankton (red copepods). They have developed a natural “sunscreen” (pigmentation) and DNA repair mechanisms to survive.
- The Implication: If life can survive here, it proves that microbial life could theoretically survive in the paleolakes of Mars (like Gusev Crater, where the Spirit rover landed—a site chosen partly based on Licancabur research).
- Nathalie Cabrol: The famous planetary geologist and free-diver set a world record by free-diving into this lake to sample the sediments, proving that science sometimes requires extreme physical courage.
9. Border Logistics (Hito Cajón)
Climbing Licancabur usually involves a strange international commute.
- The Border Post: The crossing between Chile and Bolivia is called Hito Cajón. It is a lonely outpost in the middle of a snowy desert.
- The Transfer: Most tours involve changing vehicles here. You leave your Chilean transfer and jump into a Bolivian Land Cruiser (Toyota Land Cruisers are the only vehicles that survive here).
- The Fee: You must pay an entrance fee to the Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve (approx. 150 Bolivianos). Bring cash; there are no ATMs on the volcano.
Technical Specifications
| Feature | Data |
|---|---|
| Elevation | 5,916 m (19,409 ft) |
| Location | Border Chile (Antofagasta) / Bolivia (Potosí) |
| Type | Stratovolcano |
| Summit Feature | Crater Lake (Mars Analog) |
| Best Route | Bolivian South Face |
| Hazards | Altitude Sickness, Cold, Landmines (Chilean side) |
| Best Time | May-August (Winter) or Oct-Dec |
| Cultural Status | Inca High Mountain Sanctuary |