Name: Kelimutu: The Three Colored Lakes of Spirits
Address: World

Mount Kelimutu is unlike any other volcano in the world. Located on the island of Flores, it is famous for its three crater lakes, each of which has a different color. But the magic doesn’t stop there: the colors change unpredictably. A lake that is turquoise today might be black, chocolate brown, or blood red tomorrow.

For the local Lio people, these are not just chemical pools. They are the final resting places for the souls of the dead. Which lake you end up in depends on the life you led. This mystical combination of ever-changing geology and deep spiritual belief makes Kelimutu one of Indonesia’s most awe-inspiring destinations.

1. The Three Lakes and Their Souls

Each of the three lakes has a specific name and a specific “purpose” in the Lio afterlife mythology. They are separated by thin crater walls, yet they remain distinct.

Tiwu Ata Bupu (Lake of Old People)

Location: The westernmost lake, isolated from the other two.
The Spirits: This is the resting place for the souls of the elderly and those who died of natural causes after leading a good life. It represents wisdom and purity.
The Color: Historically blue, but often appears almost black or dark green today.
The Legend: It is said to be the quietest of the lakes, fitting for the ancestors who protect the mountain.

Tiwu Nuwa Muri Koo Fai (Lake of Young Men and Maidens)

Location: The central lake, next to the “Evil” lake.
The Spirits: This is where the souls of young people go—those who died before their time or unmarried.
The Color: Usually a brilliant, milky turquoise green. It is often the most vibrant of the three.
The Science: The color comes from a balance of sulfuric acid and dissolved minerals.

Tiwu Ata Polo (Bewitched Lake / Lake of Evil Spirits)

Location: The easternmost lake, separated from the “Young” lake by a steep, narrow wall.
The Spirits: This is the hell-realm of Kelimutu. It is the destination for the souls of the wicked, criminals, and those who committed evil deeds.
The Color: Historically famous for being blood red, though in recent years it has often shifted to dark brown or even olive green. When it turns red, locals believe it is a sign of impending disaster or political turmoil.

2. The Legend of Ata Polo and Perekonde

While the lakes are the destination, the journey of the soul begins at Perekonde, a mythical gate to the spirit world. According to Lio legend, two guardians stand at this gate: Konde and Ratu. They act as judges for every soul that arrives.

If a soul is deemed worthy, it is guided to the peaceful Tiwu Ata Bupu. If it is young and restless, it is sent to Tiwu Nuwa Muri Koo Fai. But if the soul is weighed down by sin, it is cast into Tiwu Ata Polo.

The Story of Ata Polo and Ata Mbupu

Legend tells of two powerful figures who once lived on the mountain:

Ata Polo: A sorcerer and a witch who delighted in eating humans.
Ata Mbupu: A kind, respected elder and protector of the people. They lived in an uneasy truce until they fought over the fate of two orphans. Their battle was so fierce it tore the earth apart, forming the craters we see today. The witch Ata Polo was swallowed by the earth, creating the “Bewitched Lake,” while Ata Mbupu vanished into the “Lake of Old People.”

3. The Science: Why Do They Change Color?

Kelimutu is a geological anomaly. The color changes happen independently for each lake, even though they are arguably part of the same volcano.

Volcanic Gas: Underwater fumaroles release varying amounts of sulfur dioxide, hydrogen sulfide, and chlorine gas.
Mineral Reaction: These gases react with the high concentrations of heavy metals (iron, manganese, zinc) in the lake water.
Oxygen Dynamics: The “Red” color (Tiwu Ata Polo) is usually caused by oxygen reacting with dissolved iron to form rust-colored precipitates. The “Green” colors are often caused by sulfuric acid interacting with copper or free sulfur.
The Mystery: Scientists can monitor the chemistry, but no one can predict when the colors will shift. In 2016 alone, the lakes changed color six times. The unpredictability fuels the local belief that the changes are driven by the moods of the spirits.

4. Getting There: Moni Village

The gateway to Kelimutu is the small, misty village of Moni, located about 13km from the peak.

Transport: You can fly into Ende (closest airport) or Maumere (larger airport). From Ende, it is a 1.5 - 2 hour drive up winding mountain roads to Moni. From Maumere, it is 3 - 4 hours.
Moni Vibe: It is a classic backpacker stopover. Rice paddies, simple guesthouses with ikat weavings on the walls, and cool mountain air.
Food: Try “Moni Cakes” (potato/vegetable patties) at the local warungs.

Lio Culture and Ikat Weaving

The Lio people are famous for their Ikat textiles. Unlike printed fabrics, Ikat involves dyeing the threads before weaving them.

The Process: It can take months or even years to complete a single sarong. Natural dyes are used: indigo for blue, morinda root for red, and turmeric for yellow.
Motifs: Look for the jilamprang (eight-rayed flower) motif. The patterns often tell stories of the clan’s history or social status.
Where to Buy: You can find high-quality Ikat at the morning market in Moni or directly from weavers in nearby villages like Jopu.

5. The Sunrise Experience

Unlike the grueling midnight hike at Kawah Ijen or the 4x4 scrum at Bromo, Kelimutu is (mostly) a gentle experience.

The Timeline

4:00 AM: Wake up in Moni. It will be chilly.
4:30 AM: Take a car or motorbike (ojek) to the National Park entrance gate. It takes about 30 minutes on a winding paved road.
5:00 AM: Start the walk to the summit. It is an easy 20-30 minute walk on paved stairs. You will pass monkeys in the trees—keep your snacks hidden!
5:30 AM: Reach the “Inspiration Point” (the summit monument). This is the only spot where you can see all three lakes at once.
Sunrise: Watch as the sun breaks over the clouds and illuminates the different colors of the lakes.

Entrance Fees (2024 Update)

Foreigners: IDR 150,000 (weekdays) / IDR 225,000 (weekends).
Locales: IDR 10,000.
Tip: Bring cash. There are no ATMs on the mountain.

6. Beyond the Lakes: Waterfalls and Hot Springs

Don’t just see the sunrise and leave. The area around Moni is full of hidden gems.

Muru Ndao Waterfall

Located just a short walk from the center of Moni (near the Rainbow Cafe), this is a tall, beautiful waterfall. It’s easy to access and rarely crowded. It’s the perfect place to cool off in the afternoon.

Hot Springs (Air Panas)

Liasembe Hot Spring: Located about 2km from Moni, this is a popular spot for locals. The water is naturally heated by the volcanic activity. It is a simple, tiled pool in the middle of rice paddies.
Kolorongo Hot Spring: A more natural setting near Waturaka Village.

Waturaka Village

This is an “eco-tourism village” located near Moni. Here, you can experience authentic Lio daily life. You can stay in a homestay, help with farming, or learn traditional cooking. It is a great alternative if you want a deeper cultural connection than just a hotel room.

7. The Annual “Pati Ka” Ceremony

Every year on August 14th, the Lio people gather for the Pati Ka Du’a Bapu Ata Mata ceremony.

The Ritual: “Feeding the Ancestors.”
The Offering: Tribe elders lead a procession to the crater rim to offer pork, rice, betel nut, and tobacco to the spirits in the lakes.
The Purpose: To show respect, ask for blessings, and ensure the spirits remain peaceful. If you are in Flores in August, this is a must-see cultural event.

Technical Specifications

Feature	Data
Elevation	1,639 m (5,377 ft)
Best Base	Moni Village
Type	Complex Volcano
Lake 1 (Old)	Tiwu Ata Bupu (Blue/Black)
Lake 2 (Young)	Tiwu Nuwa Muri Koo Fai (Turquoise)
Lake 3 (Evil)	Tiwu Ata Polo (Red/Brown)
Best Time	All year (Sunrise for clear views)