Name: Pico do Fogo: The Volcano of Fire and Wine - Cape Verde's Giant
Address: World

Pico do Fogo (Peak of Fire) is the defining landmark of Cape Verde. Rising 2,829 meters (9,281 feet) out of the Atlantic Ocean, this massive stratovolcano is the highest point in the archipelago. It is a place of stark, contrasting beauty: black lava fields meet blue skies, and green vineyards struggle for life in the shadow of a smoking cone.

The volcano dominates the island of Fogo, which literally translates to “Fire.” It is not just a mountain; it is a community. Uniquely, a population of over 1,000 people lives inside the active caldera, farming the fertile volcanic soil and producing some of the world’s most unique wines.

Geological Setting: The Chã das Caldeiras

Pico do Fogo is not just a cone; it is a monster rising from the grave of an even larger volcano.

The Monte Amarelo Collapse: Tens of thousands of years ago, a massive shield volcano known as Monte Amarelo occupied the island. It likely reached 3,500 meters in height. In a cataclysmic event, the entire eastern flank of the mountain collapsed into the sea. This mega-landslide removed an estimated 150-200 cubic kilometers of rock, creating the 9-kilometer-wide vertical scar we call Chã das Caldeiras.
The Tsunami: The collapse sent a megatsunami racing across the Atlantic. Geologists have found marine boulders the size of vans deposited 200 meters above sea level on the nearby island of Santiago, evidence of the wave’s terrifying power.
The Bordeira: The vertical wall that encircles the western side of the caldera, rising 1,000 meters straight up, is the remaining rim of that ancient volcano. The current Pico do Fogo grew inside the debris of this collapse, a “phoenix” volcano rising from the ruins.

People of the Volcano: The Montronds

What makes Fogo truly unique is not the geology, but the anthropology. While most active volcanoes are surrounded by “exclusion zones,” the crater of Fogo is home to a vibrant community.

The Village of Chã

Over 1,000 people live in two villages inside the caldera: Portela and Bangaeira. They are descended from a unique lineage. In the late 19th century, a French nobleman named Armand Montrond arrived on Fogo. He settled inside the crater, reportedly finding the climate suitable for growing vines. He had many children with local women, establishing a large clan.

Genetic Legacy: Today, the “Montrond” name is everywhere in the Chã. Visitors are often surprised to meet locals with dark skin but striking blue or green eyes and light hair—the genetic legacy of the French count.
Life in the Crater: There is no running water or grid electricity in the Chã (residents use generators and solar panels). Life is hard, but the soil is incredibly fertile. The locals grow grapes, pomegranates, apples, and figs in the black volcanic ash. They have a saying: “The volcano gives, and the volcano takes.”

A History of Destruction and Resilience

Fogo is a highly active volcano, with nearly 30 eruptions since the island’s discovery in the 15th century.

The 1995 Eruption

On April 2, 1995, the volcano erupted from a fissure on its flank. It was a “tourist eruption” for the first week, but flow direction changed, burying fertile farmland. The residents evacuated but returned soon after to rebuild.

The 2014-2015 Disaster

The most recent major event tested the soul of the community.

The Start: On the morning of November 23, 2014, earthquakes shook the caldera. By 10:00 AM, a new vent opened at the base of Pico do Fogo. A fast-moving river of lava headed straight for the villages.
The Destruction: Unlike 1995, this eruption did not stop. For 77 days, the lava crawled forward. It was an agonizing slow-motion disaster. The lava flow was 10 meters high, crushing stone houses like eggshells. It destroyed Portela completely and then consumed Bangaeira.
Key Losses: The eruption destroyed the local school, the health center, and the award-winning Fogo Natural Park Headquarters—a beautiful circular building that had just been inaugurated. The famous wine cooperative was also buried.
The Return: The government of Cape Verde tried to relocate the population to settlements outside the caldera (Achada Furna). But the people of Chã refused to stay. Within months of the lava cooling, they returned. They built temporary shelters on top of the still-warm lava flows. Today, a new Chã has risen on the black rock. New hotels, restaurants, and a makeshift winery are open for business. It is a powerful display of human resilience and attachment to the land.

Volcanic Wine: Vinho do Fogo

One of the most surprising industries in Cape Verde is the production of world-class wine inside an active volcano.

The Terroir

The Chã is a unique microclimate. During the day, the black lava rock absorbs intense heat. At night, the temperature drops significantly due to the altitude (1,700m). This diurnal temperature variation, combined with mineral-rich volcanic soil and a complete lack of phylloxera (the vine disease), allows vines to grow without trellises. They are low bushes, crawling along the ash to protect themselves from the wind.

Manecom and Passito

Manecom: This is the traditional homemade wine, often strong, semi-sweet, and high in alcohol (14-15%). It is rough but full of character.
Chã Cooperative: Before 2014, the cooperative produced refined whites (mostly from Moscatel grapes) and reds (Preta Tradicional). The whites are exceptional—crisp, acidic, with distinct notes of sulfur and minerals that connoisseurs prize.
Post-Eruption Winemaking: With the winery destroyed, locals made wine in their basements for two years. A new, modern winery has since been constructed. Buying a bottle of “Chã” wine is the best way to support the local economy.

Hiking to the Summit: The “Rampeh”

Climbing Pico do Fogo is the ultimate Cape Verdean adventure.

The Ascent

The hike starts from Chã das Caldeiras. It requires a guide (mandatory by law to support the local economy). The trail is steep and unforgiving, gaining over 1,000 meters in elevation on loose scree.

The Views: As you climb, the view of the caldera opens up. You can see the distinct black rivers of the 1995 and 2014 lava flows, cutting through the green patches of vineyards.
The Fumaroles: Near the summit, the ground is hot to the touch. Yellow sulfur deposits line the cracks. The crater itself is a deep pit, often emitting gas. It is a reminder that the monster is only sleeping.

The Descent (Rampeh)

This is the highlight. Instead of walking down the rocky path, hikers head to a slope of deep, soft volcanic ash (lapilli).

Volcano Skiing: You essentially “ski” down without skis. With each step, you slide 2-3 meters. It is an adrenaline-fueled rush. What took 4 hours to climb takes only 20-30 minutes to descend. You arrive at the bottom covered in black dust, with boots full of ash, but grinning from ear to ear.

Pico Pequeno

For a less strenuous but equally dramatic hike, visitors can explore Pico Pequeno, the parasitic cone formed during the 2014 eruption.

Raw Geology: Here, the geology is fresh. You can see the “spatter cones” and the exact spot where the lava river that destroyed the village emerged. The rocks are sharp, glassy, and fragile.
Heat: In some cracks, you can still light a piece of wood on fire from the residual heat of the magma below.

Life in the Lava: Flora and Fauna

Despite the harsh volcanic environment, Fogo supports specialized biodiversity.

Endemic Plants: The crater walls are home to Echium vulcanorum (lingua-de-vaca) and Erysimum caboverdeanum (cravo-brabo), plants found nowhere else on earth. They have adapted to the sulfur-rich soil and extreme aridity.
The Fea’s Petrel: The steep cliffs of the Bordeira provide nesting grounds for the Fea’s petrel (Gon-gon), an endangered seabird. Conservationists work tirelessly to protect these nesting sites from invasive cats and rats.
Coffee: Outside the main lava flow, in the slightly wetter zones (Mosteiros), Fogo produces some of the world’s best coffee. Fogo coffee has a distinct volcanic acidity and is highly prized by connoisseurs.

Conclusion

Pico do Fogo is a place where life exists on the edge. It is a landscape of destruction that produces life-giving wine. The resilience of the people who live in the Chã, rebuilding their lives on top of the very lava that destroyed their homes, makes a visit to Fogo a deeply moving human experience as well as a geological one. To sip a glass of volcanic wine while watching the sunset over the Bordeira wall is to understand why the locals refuse to leave: this is the most beautiful, dangerous place on Earth.

Quick Facts

Location: Fogo Island, Cape Verde
Coordinates: 14.95° N, 24.35° W
Summit Elevation: 2,829 m (9,281 ft)
Volcano Type: Stratovolcano nestled in a collapse caldera.
Key Product: Fogo Wine (Manecom) and Coffee.
Status: Active.